Shoe or gaiter



(No Model.)

P. P. BUZZBLL.

SHOE OR GAITER.

No. 329,333. Patented Nov. 3, 1885.

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FREEMAN P. BUZZELL, OF TOLEDO, OHIO.

SHOE OR GAITER.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 329,533, dated November 3, 1885 Application filed April 15, 1884. Serial No. 128,048.

To aZZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, FREEMAN P. BUZZELL, residing at Toledo, in the county of Lucas and State of Ohio, and a citizen of the United States, have invented new and useful Improvements in Shoes and Gaiters, of which the following is a full description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 is a side view of a completed shoe; Fig. 2, a rear view of the quarters; Fig. 3, a view showing the blank from which the top of the quarters and the heel-stay are formed 5 Fig. 4, a View showing the blanks stitched together from which the bottom or foxing for the quarters is formed; Fig. 5, a View showing one of the blanks for the bottom or foxing for the quarters.

The object of this invention is to give the proper curvature to the heel, ankle, and leg portions of a shoe or gaiter, so as to form a close fit around the parts they are designed to cover, which will be accurate and smooth without an exterior back seam and without the use of crimping. It has heretofore been found extremely difficult to form a smoothfitting shoe or gaiter around the heel, ankle, and leg without either so cutting the parts that they are liable to rip, or so crimping them that when in use the crimp will come out, or they will either wrinkle or break where crimped at the back above the heel, where the stitching crosses the wrinkling point in use; and these difficulties, and also the difficulties in lasting the shoe at the heel with the forms or methods heretofore used, where shoes are out without a back seam, are overcome by my invention, which consists in the parts and combinations of parts hereinafter more specifically described and claimed as new.

In the drawings, a indicates the upper part of the quarters; b, the tongue forming the stay over the heeIseam; 0, the portion of the quarters extending in front; d, the bottom or foxing for the quarters; e, the point at which the wrinkling in use occurs; f, the point at the top of the back of the shoe where the stretching is done to enlarge the top and produce the curve at the back of the shoe; the point at which the upward stretching commences.

The top or upper portion and the front portion of the quarters and the stay for the heel- (No model.)

seam are out from a piece of leather in the form shown in Fig. 3, and the bottom or foxing for the quarters is cut from a piece of leather in the form shown in Fig. 5, then sewed together at the center as shown in Fig. 4, to form the complete bottom or foxing, and the two portions forming a complete quarter are stitched together, as shown in Fig. 2, and when first stitched the portion forming the top is unstretched, which simply gives the upper portion a backward inclined position without the desired curvature, which curvature is produced by stretching the upper portion, giving it the form shown in Fig. 2. The bottom pieces or foXings for the quarters, out as shown in Fig. 5, and stitched together at the back, as shown in Fig. 4, produce the proper curve to fit the last and for the heel of the complete shoe, presenting the form when completeshown in Fig. 1. The tongue I), when stitched in place as shown in Fig. 2, forms a stay-piece for the heel, and covers'the seam at the back in the pieces or foxings [1, giving the completed shoe a neat appearance, and also furnishing a double protection at the back, as the bottom or foxing d has the tongue or stay b stitched over it, rendering the shoe less liable to rip or come apart at this point, and forming an unusually strong heel. The bottom edge of the part a c is stitched to the top edge of the bottom or foxing d on the exterior surface of the bottom or foXing, as shown in Fig. 2, and the complete quarters are joined to the front of the shoe, as usual. The position of the pieces forming the quarters when first stitched together, instead of forming the .proper curve, shown in Fig. 1, will give a straight line, and, in order to produce the desired curvature for the upper portion and the desired width at the top required for the shoe at the same time,the upper portion is stretched upward and outward until the desired curvature and size are obtained. This curvature and stretching are obtained by applying the power at the point f on the back upper porion of the shoe and drawing the leather outward, to increase the size at the top, and at the same time drawing the leather upward from the point 9, which produces a narrowing at the point e, forming the shoe with the curvature shown in Fig. l, and this curvature is formed without any crimping or compressing of the leather at the point 6, nor is the leather strained at this point, thus overcoming the natural tendency of the shoe to either wrinkle or break at the point 6.

By thus constructing the shoe heavy or firm leather can be used for the bottom of the quarters or foxings and a light leather for the uptained.

By this construction and arrangement of the parts the shoe can be easily lasted, and when on the foot it will fit on the heel, ankle, and leg neatly and smoothly.

The Vamps, soles, and heels for the complete shoe are to be applied in the usualmanner, with any suitable lining and stiffening, as desired.

WVhat I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

The upper portion of quarters a and c and tongue b, formed in one piece and drawn over and attached to the lower quarters or foxings, (1, formed of two pieces rounded and stitched together at their rear edges, with the tongue or stay-piece covering the seam in the rear of the lower quarters, and the upper portion, a 0, being stretched outward or backward and from the point 9 upward, substantially as described.

V FREEMAN P. BUZZELL. 'Witnesses:

ALBERT H. ADAMS, O. W. BOND. 

